Hack the Violette Top: Add a Rouleau Button Loop Placket & a Scoop Neckline

On both the Front and the Back, remove 2 cm (3/4") from the high neck point and 3 cm (1 1/8") from the shoulder point.

Move the centre front up by 2.5 cm (1"). You can move it up by more if you want the neckline less deep. Then trace a line perpendicular to it toward the bodice. From the high shoulder point, trace a line straight down crossing that line. With a French ruler, trace the new scoop neckline.

Using a French ruler, retrace the neckline.

Retrace the armhole using a French ruler.

Add 3 cm (1 1/8") to the bodice width at the hem line, keeping the slight curve. Retrace the side seams from the armscye point.

Tip: place the shoulder seams of the Front and Back together, folding the seam allowance over first, and check that all the lines run smoothly into each other. Do the same for the hem at the side seam, curving it a little so it is not angled.

Your finished pieces should look like this.

Before anything else, staystitch the neckline and the armholes just inside the seam allowance. These are curved edges cut partly on the bias, and they will stretch out as you handle them. A line of staystitching keeps them the shape you cut.

It takes two minutes and it saves you a gaping neckline later.

a. First, sew the 3 ruffle pieces together. Pin the two short ruffle pieces right sides together with the long one and sew at 1 cm (3/8"). Finish the seams and press toward the long ruffle.

b. Next, hem it. Fold one of the long edges twice by 7 mm (1/4") and sew along the folded edge. You can press the fold first to make it easier. I use a rolled hem presser foot (size 6) for this.

c. We're going to sew the basting stitches in 3 parts, for each ruffle piece. It will make it easier to gather that way. So for each, sew a first basting stitch along the top using a 7 mm (1/4") seam allowance, backstitch at the beginning but leave long thread tails at the end. Then, with the right edge of your presser foot aligned with the first row, sew a second row of basting stitches, at 1.4 cm (1/2").

Length 5 or max, tension 2 to 3.

a. Sew the Front and Back pattern pieces right sides together at 1 cm (3/8") at the shoulders and the side seams. Press all the seams open, then press again to the back.

b. Finish the seams by overlocking or overcasting.

Follow steps 3c and 3d from the Violette top instructions to sew the ruffle to the top. It is the same thing except here you'll match the ruffle's seams to the top's side seams to gather it in 3 parts.

a. Fold your button loop bias piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew at 3 mm (1/8") from the fold (NOT the raw edge).

Tip: for loops shaped more like tubes do not trim the seam allowance. For loops that are more flat, trim the seam allowance down.

Then turn it inside out using whichever method you like (bodkin, loop turner, needle).

Cut your loops to 4 cm (1 5/8") in length.

Note: if your buttons are not the size mine are, adjust the length of your loops. Fold the rouleau in half and pass your button through to see how it fits, it should be a little tight.

b. Mark where the loops go on the front (right or left front, doesn't really matter). The bottom one is placed just above the ruffle seam. The next ones are placed around 3.7 cm (1 1/2") apart.

c. Pin them right above your markings, making sure they are not twisted.

d. Sew them in place 5 mm (1/4") from the raw edge. Use a short stitch length.

a. Place the placket over the loops, right side together, and sew at 7 mm (1/4"). At the hem, fold over the placket to the wrong side by 1 cm (3/8") so that when we turn the placket over the corner will be neat. Double check that your buttons still fit nicely through the loops.

b. Fold the placket over so its right side is visible and understitch it to the seam allowance. Make sure the seam allowance is laying flat, facing the placket (not the garment).

c. Flip your top to the wrong side and fold the placket once to the stitch line and once again to enclose its raw edge. Press.

d. Edgestitch the placket along the fold.

a. Follow the steps 4a, 4b and 4c from the instructions to sew the neckline bias. Before turning it over twice, sew the last rouleau button loop in it. Fold the bias at the center front once and place the loop on top, sew with a short stitch. Use a piece of folded fabric to start sewing as it will be thick.

b. Resume at step 4c to finish sewing the neckline bias.

Place the button loops on top of the side where you will sew your buttons, and use a pen, chalk or pins to mark where each button should sit.

Then hand sew them on. This is the part I like doing in the evening with something on in the background.

Follow the same steps (5) as the Violette Top instructions to finish the armholes.