I made this midi length Harvest Moon dress for the Holidays with a few easy hacks. I made the button placket full-length, I made 2 tiers instead of 3 (and with different proportions), and I made the neckband & the cuffs more narrow. I absolutely love how it turned out and if you decide to give these hacks a try, I hope you will too!

Buy the pattern here.

Trace & Cut the Tiers

These measurements are just based on my preference, if you'd like more gathers add some width to each tier and feel free to shorten/lengthen them as well. The gathered seam between the tiers falls approximately at the low hips.
For reference I am 1m64/5'4 and my measurements are 89-69-103 cm / 34-27-41". I wear a size 4/36.

Full-length button placket + 2 tiers skirt

Trace and cut your tiers based on the following measurements. The Front pieces each have 3.2 cm or 1 1/4" of added seam allowance, so the Front is 6.4 cm or 2 1/2" wider in total, compared to the Back.

Metric Measurements

Tier 1 length = 29.5 cm

Tier 2 length = 67 cm

WIDTHS

	0/32	2/34	4/36	6/38	8/40	10/42
Tier 1 - Back	66	68	70	72	74	76
Tier 1 - Front x2	34.25	36.25	38.25	40.25	42.25	44.25
Tier 2 - Back	100	102	104	106	108	110
Tier 2 - Front x2	51.25	53.25	55.25	57.25	59.25	61.25

	12/44	14/46	16/48	18/50	20/52	22/54	24/56
Tier 1 - Back	78	80	82	84	87	90	93
Tier 1 - Front x2	46.25	48.25	50.25	52.25	54.25	56.25	58.25
Tier 2 - Back	112	114	116	118	121	124	127
Tier 2 - Front x2	63.25	65.25	67.25	69.25	71.25	73.25	75.25

Imperial Measurements

Tier 1 length = 11 5/8 in

Tier 2 length = 26 3/8 in

WIDTHS

	0/32	2/34	4/36	6/38	8/40	10/42
Tier 1 - Back	26	26 3/4	27 1/2	28 3/8	29 1/8	29 7/8
Tier 1 - Front x2	13 1/2	14 1/4	15 1/6	15 7/8	16 5/8	17 3/8
Tier 2 - Back	39 3/8	40 1/8	40 7/8	41 3/4	42 1/2	43 3/8
Tier 2 - Front x2	20 1/8	20 7/8	21 3/4	22 1/2	23 3/8	24 1/8

	12/44	14/46	16/48	18/50	20/52	22/54	24/56
Tier 1 - Back	30 3/4	31 1/2	32 1/4	33	34 1/4	35 3/8	36 5/8
Tier 1 - Front x2	18 1/4	19	19 7/8	20 5/8	21 3/8	22 1/8	22 7/8
Tier 2 - Back	44 1/8	44 7/8	45 3/4	46 1/2	47 5/8	48 7/8	50
Tier 2 - Front x2	24 7/8	25 3/4	26 1/2	27 1/4	28 1/8	28 7/8	29 5/8

So for each tier, you’ll have 1 Back & 2 Fronts that have added seam allowance for the button placket.

Narrower Neckband

1. Cut the pattern as usual (x2 pieces).

2. Remove 1 cm or 3/8” from the inner edge.

Narrower band cuffs

1. Cut the pattern as usual (x2 pieces).

2. Remove 2.5 cm or 1” from the short edge of the cuffs.

Sewing Instructions

Green = wrong side / White = right side

1. Start at Step 3: attach sleeves to Back and Front, gather shoulders, sew side seams, etc…

2. For the drawstring waist: sew the drawstring's buttonholes now at 6.7 cm or 2 5/8" from center front raw edges instead of 3.5 cm or 1 3/8" (since we haven't sewn the button placket on the bodice yet).

 

3. Skip Step 4: don’t sew the neckband yet.

4. Go to Step 7: for each tier, sew both Fronts to their Back at the side seams, right sides together. Press seams open, then to the back. Finish the seams and press to the back.

 
5. Create 2 rows of basting stitches at the top of the tiers. I prefer to do separate ones for each panel (front, back, front). Start/Stop 5.7 cm or 2 1/4" from the center raw edges on the Front pieces to leave space without gathers for folding over the button placket.

 

6. Mark 5.7 cm or 2 1/4" on the center raw edge of the bodice’s Fronts.

7. Pin Tier 1 to the bodice right sides together, matching center front marks and side seams.

8. Gather tier to match the bodice’s width.

9. Sew at required seam allowance: 1 cm or 3/8" for regular waist and 2,5cm/1" for drawstring waist.

10. Remove basting stitches, finish seam, and press towards the top.

11. For drawstring waist: create casing now as per instructions.

12. Interface outer neckband as per instructions and the center raw edges on both Fronts for the full-length button placket.

13. Fold over button placket twice by pressing, once at 7 mm or 1/4" and the second time at 2.5cm/1". I like to mark these lines on the right side of my fabric first to guide me when folding over. Pin.

14. Edgestitch along both edges.

15. Sew regular round collar neckband as per instructions.

16. Mark and sew buttonholes. I used 13 buttons, 6 cm or 2 3/8" apart (between bottoms of buttonholes).

17. Proceed to step 9 to finish your dress.

And voilà! I hope you found this tutorial helpful, feel free to reach out or comment below if you have any questions :) 

Get the pattern here.

Loïse

 

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