How to Sew Lace Insertions

A vintage technique that sets lace flush within the fabric, with a straight stitch and a little patience.

Red gingham fabric with a delicate lace insertion

A lace insertion is a strip of lace sewn into a piece of fabric so the lace sits flush within the garment, with fabric on both sides. Unlike lace appliqué (where lace sits on top of the fabric) or lace edging (along a hem or neckline), an insertion is set right into the body of the garment. You see it a lot in vintage and heirloom sewing, and it adds such a soft, feminine detail.

The good news? It is easier than it looks. You only need a straight stitch and a bit of patience.

I use this technique on my Rafaela pattern, and you will spot lace on my Leonie dress too. I wanted to break down exactly how I do it so you can add lace insertions to your own projects too.

What you'll need

Your fabric piece, pre-cut to your pattern
Lace trim of your choice (flat lace works best for insertions)
A ruler and a fabric pen
Your sewing machine, a straight stitch is all you need
An iron

Mark your lace placement

On the right side of your garment, trace two lines where you want your lace to sit. Use a ruler to keep them straight and evenly spaced to match the width of your lace trim.

Sew the lace in place

Place your lace between the lines you just drew, right side up. Sew along each edge of the lace with a straight stitch, following your markings. This secures the lace trim to the fabric before you cut.

Trace a cutting line on the wrong side

Flip your fabric over to the wrong side. Trace a line down the middle of your lace. This is where you will cut to open up the insertion.

Cut the fabric

Cut your fabric along that line, right through the middle. Take your time here so you do not accidentally cut into the lace. Sharp scissors make a big difference for this step.

Press the seam allowance open

Press the seam allowance open on each side so it lays flat. This is what gives you a clean finish on the right side and lets the lace sit nicely.

Fold and hide the raw edges

Fold the seam allowance inward on each side, twice, so it ends up about 5 mm wide and the raw edge is completely hidden. Pin or press in place. This double fold is what keeps the insertion looking neat and prevents fraying.

Edgestitch along the fold

Edgestitch along the fold on each side, refolding the seam allowance as you sew if needed. Press when you are done.

Here's the edgestitching in action.

And done

That's it. You now have a clean, professional-looking lace insertion. It looks intricate, but the process is really straightforward once you have done it a couple of times.

Finished lace insertion sewn into fabric, showing a clean result

This technique works with all kinds of lace trim, so play around with different widths and styles.

A few questions

What type of lace works best for lace insertions?

Flat lace trim works best. Look for lace with a defined, straight edge on both sides so it is easy to sew down evenly. Cotton lace is great for garments in natural fabrics like linen or cotton.

Can I add a lace insertion to a finished garment?

Yes, but it is much easier to add the insertion to your fabric pieces before you assemble the garment. That way you are working with flat fabric and can keep everything straight.

How wide should the lace be for an insertion?

That depends on the look you are going for. Narrow lace (1 to 2 cm) gives a subtle, delicate detail. Wider lace (3 to 5 cm) makes more of a statement. The technique is the same regardless of width.

Try this technique with the Rafaela pattern

This is the lace insertion I use on my Rafaela top & dress. If you love the detail, Rafaela walks you through it in full, with everything worked out for you. It also works beautifully on my Leonie dress if you would like to try it there.